Have you ever judged a city by the “could I live here?” test?
Madrid unexpectedly passed with flying colors. I always thought I preferred smaller towns, villages, or places by the beach — but this big city surprised me. It’s charming, compact, and completely walkable. It has it all — seriously, everything.
With three nights, I had time to settle in and savor it — one bite at a time.
A Royal Walk
Our hotel was in the heart of Puerta del Sol— Madrid’s bustling central square (and fun fact — also the geographic center of Spain). From this ideal homebase, I could easily walk to every site and neighborhood I wanted to explore.
First stop — west, to wander the grounds of the Royal Palace. The bells started to ring in the tower just as I arrived. There’s something about that sound I love — it feels important and pause-worthy — so I stood still for a minute and took it in.
Feeling regal enough for one day, I later headed east toward Madrid’s great art museums. I circled the famous Prado but skipped going inside to spend the afternoon in the sunshine instead.
The gardens were so pretty, and I’d been hearing very good things about Madrid’s rooftop bar scene. And so, priorities.
But don’t worry, I still honored the Prado. Its most famous painting is Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez — a portrait of Princess Margarita — so I had two Margaritas at UMusic Rooftop Casa Chicote in the Barrio de las Letras.
Art history, my way.
Enter: Tomato Soup
Somewhere between sightseeing and sunset, food became the next priority. I headed back to Calle de Cava de San Miguel, a lively little street near Plaza Major lined with small restaurants and shops that our tour manager had introduced us to the day before during the orientation walk.
One tiny restaurant caught my eye — its cheerful blue accents outside practically calling me in. As soon as I sat down, the waiter appeared with a small sample of tomato soup, on the house.
For a tomato lover, this felt like fate. In fact, love tomatoes so much I used to joke that I should start a business called Tomato Lady.
I later learned it was salmorejo — thick, cold, and rich. This version was topped with ham, egg, and finished with black salt. I ordered the full size after the sample and haven’t stopped thinking about it since.
And thanks to the tour manager for coordinating an impromptu happy hour, the food and drink discoveries didn’t stop there.
We went to El Mesón del Champiñón — which translates to The Mushroom Tavern. They’re known for their chorizo-stuffed mushroom caps — they were so good, I had to actively remind myself to share them.
We then wandered over to the vibrant San Miguel Market where I sampled olives in every shape, size, and color.
I even had my first vermouth, a drink I still can’t quite decide if I like or not!
The day still had one small surprise left.
I was just steps from my hotel — and basically already in my pajamas in my head — when I spotted a gelato line stretching outside a tiny shop nearby.
My first thought was, No, that’s ridiculous. It’s so late. My second thought — I’m in Spain! And just like that, I joined the line.
As soon as I did, the man in front of me turned around and said something very fast in Spanish. All I caught was the word mañana. Not understanding, I just smiled and stayed put.
Eventually, he turned back around, waved me in, and pulled the large garage-style door down behind me. That’s when I realized — he worked there, they were closing, and he had tried to tell me to come back tomorrow!
A little embarrassed — but thrilled to have scored the last double scoop of cafe — I guess not knowing the language sometimes has its benefits.
Gelato at midnight — what a concept. It comes guilt-free…but only in Spain!
Rise and Shine for El Rastro!
Morning came quickly, and I was so glad to be in Madrid on a Sunday — just in time for El Rastro, the city’s famous weekly flea market and one of the largest in Europe. It’s been around for centuries in the adorable La Latina neighborhood.
I had heard it would be crowded — but I wasn’t prepared for just how crowded some streets would be.
At one point, I was literally touching shoulders with multiple strangers, packed so tightly we could only move about an inch at a time. For a moment, I genuinely wondered if I would ever make it back out again. I honestly thought, this might be where I live now.
Somehow, in the fun, organized chaos, I scored a small ceramic dish. With my limited Spanish, I never did learn its history or what it was meant for.
A single olive? A pinch of salt? A very well protected snack?
The mystery only made it better. For now, it sits on a table in my home, waiting for the perfect something. My best guess: olive throne.
What do you think?
My Kind of Morning
I finally made my way out of the flea market and still had the whole day ahead of me. As I passed back through the Plaza Mayor, I noticed cafe chairs being set out, coffee cups appearing, and workers washing the sidewalks with big brooms and soapy water — keeping the city notably clean.
Not hurried. Just part of the day beginning. The light was warm, the air still soft, and everything felt full of possibility —the quiet moment before the city belongs to everyone, watching it stretch awake.
And then there was breakfast!
At home, it’s a protein shake. Efficient. Responsible. Here, it’s an event!
Afternoon in Toledo
After soaking in Madrid’s morning rhythm, it was time to step outside the city for a bit. Just an hour drive from Madrid, perched high on a hill and wrapped in stone, the historic town of Toledo felt like stepping into a different world for the day.
The old streets were so narrow you practically had to inhale when a car passed by.
Lanterns and fabric strung across streets like decorations shielding the sun.
It was the perfect little excursion - a reminder of how much history and beauty sits just beyond Madrid’s edges. But, it felt good to head back, knowing Madrid was still mine for one more night.
¡Salud, Madrid!
At dinner that evening, I raised a quiet toast to the city that surprised me. Charming and elegant, grand yet walkable — unexpectedly captivating.
Next up — south into Andalucia — a region of Spain with such a distinct identity that Rick Steves devotes an entire tour to it!